Part of me expected to see a group of Buddhist monks performing a ritual or chanting ceremoniously, and perhaps they did do those things on other days, but on that day the temple grounds were quite serene against the hazy grey of the mid-June sky. Ever since we passed through the entrance to the famous Kinkaku-ji, or the Golden Pavilion, on the northwest edge of Kyoto, the atmosphere around us seemed to settle as we passed into the corridor of tall, green trees and the hum of city traffic faded behind us. It was like crossing some boundary that separated the modern world from feudal Japan, and it was a very humbling experience.
Stumbling down the smooth gravel pathway, joking and laughing in English, we must have looked quite out of place, like a bunch of carrots in a box of green beans. Our group was made up of an assortment of students ranging from seniors in high school to several fresh-faced college graduates. I was the geek of the group and the expert on all things Japan that I had learned from watching so much Anime – at least, that gave me the authority to point out places that had inspired certain scenes in this or that series and, not surprisingly, it gave the tall, blond Southern California guys more of a reason to completely ignore me – it’s high school all over again I thought to myself. But I wasn’t about to let that little detail ruin my experience here. This was my first time in Japan and I was determined to see every little pebble and examine them to the finest detail.
Our group approached the entrance to the gardens and waiting for the OK to proceed through the gates. The smaller buildings at the front of the complex where we entered were places of meditation and training of the mind and body, but you couldn’t tell that from the outside as we carry on like a group of hungry chickens. At this point I had splintered from the group and stepped back to take a look around. Over the main building into which our guide had disappeared just moments before I noticed, a ways off in the background, a glint of gold. It’s actually the statue of the phoenix on top of the shine, or so I was told – it really got my mind beating with chemical ecstasy just thinking about the sights just around the corner.
Finally we received the go ahead from the group leader and we proceeded through the gates. We shuffled through the groups of other tourists, but we appeared to be the only non-Asian group visiting the shrine on that day. I began to feel a little apprehension about how I would appreciate the ideas behind the temple that we were visiting. The whole concept behind Zen Buddhism is a state of enlightened wisdom, understanding, and direct realization that can be accomplished through meditation. But those doubts that were filling my mind floated away when we cleared the crowd and beheld the sight of the main temple. The two-story pavilion was partially covered in gold that, even in the cloud-filtered light, had a rich glow about it that tickled that little “wow” receptor in my brain. On top of the temple was the golden phoenix that I had noticed earlier from outside. It rose up to pass the tree line before soaring into the sky with wings open; the sky and the trees on the mountain behind it both welcomed the mythical, golden bird. Moreover, the whole structure was built on top of a large stone that sits at the edge of a reflecting pond with tiny islands around it. On those islands grew trees that reach towards the temple. The water of the pond reflects all of the details of the temple and the small islands surrounding it. It was like looking down into an alternate dimension and seeing everything as a mirror-image; the buildings and trees and stones all slightly distorted by the little waves that the afternoon breeze was stirring up. A camera can not capture the sense of realism that I got looking across the water at this building and knowing that, sometime in antiquity, some people got together and decided to build a huge, golden structure as a place to practice their religion. While I was getting over my culture shock and still engrossed in my thoughts, the others were taking group photos down the trail while doing the Dr. Evil pinkie-up pose from Austin Powers.
We made our way around behind the temple to the gardens which wound their way through the foothills of the Daimonji Mountain. It may not have seemed like much, but it was the simplicity and the connection to nature that was the key element in this experience. I could hear the light breeze as it tickled the leaves, the gentle lapping of the tiny ripples in the mirror pond, and the calls of birds, all like a symphony being conducted by the mountain; it provided the background to the lush, green visual buffet that was spread out before me. I remained somewhat detached from the group for the first half of the trail, stopping frequently to snap a picture or to simply admire a scene. That was when it hit me – this is an experience of Zen Buddhism, this is a moment of inner peace and meditation while surrounded by nature. The big, elaborate temples were one aspect of it, but if I concentrated on the buildings too long then I lost sight of their surroundings. A truer perspective would be to take it all in and find meaning in the natural beauty, forgetting all about the metropolis that lay just beyond that line of trees.
I then came across a funny little triplet of stones jutting out of the ground behind a low, wooden railing. Behind them was another mirror pond with a small island in the middle, marked by a skinny stone marker, about the height of a person, with divided sections towards the top that reminded me of the main temple building. Little dragonflies zigzagged over the pond silently and one even came over and landed momentarily on one of the three stones, each of which had a very faint raised relief in the likeness of a Buddha. In my mind I already understood the scene from having read about it and seen it in pictures, but seeing it in person made me realize that I was by no means an expert on these things. The three stones surrounded in a semicircle a small, stone bowl and overflowing from that bowl – actually, more in the general vicinity of the bowl, since some had landed a good three feet from the bowl – was a heap of coins which visitors had thrown in for luck. The pile of shiny metal was a sharp contrast to the nature around it and this made me consider my own place in this scene of nature: why, in the vast number of people on these temple grounds, should I be the one that is observing the intricacies while the others seem to only glance about and move on? There really isn’t an answer to that – or, at least, I never found an answer to that question – it was enough for me to just be experiencing a facet of a culture so far removed from the one that I grew up with.
Making my way back down the hill I rejoined the group near the souvenir shops that crowded the path just before it dipped down several wide sets of stairs back to the street level. These sorts of shops were par for the course for all tourist attractions in Japan, and this location was no different. Everything that you could find in these shops you could find just outside the temple for half the price, but the convenience of being right there inside, while the memories of the Golden Temple were still fresh in people’s minds, prompted these little shop owners to jack their prices way up. I wondered quizzically if this too was part of the Zen Buddhism experience and chuckled to myself as I proceeded down the stairs with my group of friends. The whole experience seemed so sublime now that I was heading toward the exit, like a dream that your mind concocts while your eyes are still open. My friends ask me what I find so humorous, to which I reply, “It’s nothing,” as we step across the threshold and onto the street, bathed in the hum of the modern world.
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